Working through Lucky Cat’s multifarious menu sections, ‘Snacks’ offers up pedestrian edamame and the, usually crowd-pleasing, Crispy Squid comes heavily doused in vinegar - not even a jarring tag-team of Shichimi and Szechuan pepper could rescue this sad cephalopod. Edging past the eye-watering numbers attached to the Oscietra and Beluga caviar section, the Sashimi and Nigiri list contains competently-cut slices of toro and hamachi for around £5 a piece. Further on, a promising Kimchi Fried Rice, brimming with spring onions, shredded nori and a runny egg mixed table-side acts as a obliging partner to the high-point of the menu - the Iberico Pork Chop. This is a real stand-out, dressed with saikyo miso and accompanied by kimchi pickled gem and slithers of papaya to cut through the creamy fat of the tender blush-pink pork. Likewise, the perfectly-cooked Chilean Sea Bass, whose pearlescent segmented flesh easily pulled away from the sticky crispy skin anointed with a tad too much nitsume. These highlights aren’t cheap, floating around the £30-50 mark for only slightly larger dishes, which then ramp up significantly if you enter the World of Wagyu section, get tempted by the suckling pig or delve into anything marked MP (market price). Even vegetable sides can set you back £15. Similarly, the extensive drinks list offers some entry-level choices, but soon accelerates away from mere mortals to take in rare Bordeaux and Burgundy as well as specialty saki and whiskies of all types and origin.

It cannot be denied that the restaurant’s vantage point is a massive draw and the opportunity to boast the highest restaurant in the city must’ve been utterly irresistible to Ramsay. Indeed, the 60th floor does afford incredible vistas across the city - emblematic architecture surrounds the tower, Swiss Re’s building at 30 St. Mary Axe and Richard Roger’s masterpiece Lloyd’s of London gives way to St. Paul’s Cathedral and the Houses of Parliament beyond. Whilst the serpentine course of the Thames leads your eye to London’s iconic bridges and the forested fringes of the city on the horizon.

Due to the multifaceted and multinational demands of Ramsay’s business interests, a lack of in-person interaction with his group’s kitchens has started to show. Despite a cluster of Michelin stars dotted around his 80-plus stable of restaurants, his more affordable ‘casual’ dining spots like Street Burger, Street Pizza and Bread Street Kitchen suffer from being considered merely mediocre exponents in their chosen field. Perhaps, the further away Ramsay is from the kitchen and the further up the ivory tower he goes, the less aware he is about the quality of those concepts and what the food world’s opinion of him is. Reaching a point where chasing plaudits is futile and the best course of action is exponential growth in all areas whilst realising the full potential of that name recognition thanks to high visibility across the media spectrum. Indeed, the chance to become a franchisee of one of his brands is prominent across his website and further underscores the distance those future establishments will have from the original talent source. 

It’s often said that the British have a habit of sneering at flashiness and unapologetic success. Few dispute Ramsay’s pedigree, born of a maniacal will and a punishing work ethic that helped him become one of the early 2000s leading chefs. Earning and maintaining three Michelin stars for well over 20 years at one restaurant is no mean feat. What he has chosen to do with that success may alienate swathes of discerning diners who may feel the wheel has turned and far better options are available elsewhere. But, as evidenced by a recent posting of $120 million in pre-tax revenues for his restaurant group - there still is and, no doubt, will continue to be a significant section that marvel at his energy, cheer on his enterprising zeal and remain willing to buy into Gordon’s world.